Cedar bonsai

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Cedar bonsai

There are some types of cedar, that can become a bright bonsai indeed. The most precious ones come from the Cyprus Island and the Himalaya mountain ridge. On the one hand the are marked up by the size of the needles, by another hand by coloring and look. In the nature, tall (to sixty meters in height) trees with very thin extended needles are initially adapted for low winter temperatures and strong solar radiation in the summer. Needles grow directly from under barks of branches. In fructification of its cone in the thin, compactly located plates form fruits of the oval form with very easy winged seeds. Before I discuss what cedar is, perhaps I'd better clarify what cedar isn't. Eastern red cedar isn't a Cedrus at all, it's a juniper - Juniperus virginiana (which, BTW, is the "cedar" used as fragrant red cedar woodwork). Eastern white cedar and Western red cedar aren't Cedrus either, they're arborvitae - Thuja occidentalis and Thuja plicata, respectively. Incense cedar, Calocedrus decurrens, is close, but no cigar. Japanese cedar is Cryptomeria japonica.

Caring in vegetation period

The cedar perfectly adapts to any place, preferring solar, well aired corners with moderate humidity of environment. It is not necessary to fill in a substratum, completely to dry it before repeated watering, reducing a quantity of water and watering frequency in process of a cold snap. The soil should be well drained and sated sour clay. Fertilizers are brought as spring (for powerful growth of new runaways), as in the autumn (with a view of increase of frost resistance of a plant in the winter). The change is made strictly in time from three till five years. Roots are cut off on one third of length, but the earth which has stuck to a rhizome does not leave.

Styling the bonsai

Pruning works spend on new runaways as in the spring, and in the summer, deleting dry branches in a crone. Any care of cedar needles it is not required, except constant and all-the-year-round cleaning of needles falling down on soil.

The best time wiring a cedar is autumn. Fixing by a wire proceeds approximately one year. At a thickening of a trunk and branches not to suppose their damage.

Illness and wreckers

Caterpillars of a silkworm and bugs-grinders are the basic wreckers of a cedar. You need to destroy caterpillars operatively at detection or to sprinkle special insecticide if they have already generated a cocoon. When struggling with bugs-grinders is necessary to spray all tree in the end of winter. Identical work should be managed in the spring for destruction of adult individuals of a bug-grinder. From illnesses it is necessary to avoid some root white decay which is distinguished on the whitish stains appearing at the basis of a trunk, and at the started disease on slightly swelled up a little kidneys and loss of needles at a crone. Sometimes during the autumn period small fungi with a yellow scaly hat are observed.


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